{"product_id":"drywall","title":"Drywall","description":"\u003cp\u003eCall us for Drywall installation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDrywall Installation, Texturing \u0026amp; Painting\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA smooth, professional drywall finish is the foundation of any great interior remodel. Whether you're finishing a new room, repairing damaged walls, or refreshing tired surfaces, understanding each phase — installation, texturing, and painting — ensures a result that looks polished and lasts for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePhase 1: Drywall Installation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSheet selection\u003c\/strong\u003e — Standard 1\/2\" drywall is used for most walls and ceilings; 5\/8\" Type X is required for fire-rated assemblies; moisture-resistant (green board) or cement board is used in bathrooms and wet areas.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFraming prep\u003c\/strong\u003e — Studs or joists should be 16\" or 24\" on center. Check for plumb and level before hanging — any framing irregularity will telegraph through the finished wall.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHanging\u003c\/strong\u003e — Sheets are hung horizontally on walls to minimize butt joints. Use drywall screws every 12\" in the field and 8\" at edges; keep screws slightly dimpled — not broken through the paper face.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCutting\u003c\/strong\u003e — Score and snap for straight cuts; use a jab saw or oscillating tool for outlets, switches, and irregular openings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCorner bead \u0026amp; trim\u003c\/strong\u003e — Metal or vinyl corner bead is applied to all outside corners for a crisp, impact-resistant edge. J-bead or L-bead finishes raw edges at door openings and transitions.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePhase 2: Taping \u0026amp; Mudding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFirst coat (taping coat)\u003c\/strong\u003e — Apply all-purpose or setting-type compound to joints; embed paper or mesh tape and feather out 4–6\" on each side. Fill screw dimples flush.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSecond coat (blocking coat)\u003c\/strong\u003e — Apply a wider, thinner coat 8–10\" wide after the first coat is fully dry. Lightly sand high spots before applying.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThird coat (finish coat)\u003c\/strong\u003e — Feather joints out to 12\" or more with a lightweight finishing compound for a nearly invisible seam. Sand smooth when dry using 120-grit paper or a sanding sponge.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrying time\u003c\/strong\u003e — Allow 24 hours between coats; longer in humid or cold conditions. Never rush with heat guns — slow drying reduces cracking.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePhase 3: Texturing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrange peel\u003c\/strong\u003e — A light, spattered texture applied by spray gun or aerosol can; creates a subtle dimpled surface that hides minor imperfections and is easy to touch up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKnockdown\u003c\/strong\u003e — Mud is spattered on the wall and then lightly \"knocked down\" with a drywall knife to flatten the peaks, creating an irregular, natural stone-like finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSkip trowel\u003c\/strong\u003e — A hand-applied technique using a curved trowel to create a varied, artisan texture; thicker and more architectural than knockdown.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSmooth finish\u003c\/strong\u003e — No texture; requires the most skill and prep but delivers a clean, modern look that showcases paint color and sheen beautifully.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePopcorn (acoustic)\u003c\/strong\u003e — Spray-applied ceiling texture common in older homes; can be replicated for matching repairs or removed entirely during remodel.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePhase 4: Painting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePrime first — always\u003c\/strong\u003e — Unprimed drywall absorbs paint unevenly, causing \"flashing\" (dull spots over joints). Use a PVA drywall primer or high-build primer sealer as the first coat.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSheen selection\u003c\/strong\u003e — Flat or matte for low-traffic walls and ceilings; eggshell or satin for living areas and bedrooms; semi-gloss for kitchens, bathrooms, and trim where washability matters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplication\u003c\/strong\u003e — Cut in edges with a brush, then roll the field with a 3\/8\" nap roller for smooth walls or 1\/2\" nap for textured surfaces. Apply in a \"W\" or \"M\" pattern for even coverage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo finish coats\u003c\/strong\u003e — Two coats of finish paint over primer is the standard for full, even coverage. Lightly sand between coats with 220-grit for a silky final surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColor temperature tip\u003c\/strong\u003e — In mountain and lake environments like South Lake Tahoe, warm whites and earthy neutrals complement natural light and wood tones beautifully throughout the year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"South Tahoe Remodel","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":43606273884237,"sku":null,"price":99.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0726\/2424\/2765\/files\/drywall-installation.png?v=1787965190","url":"https:\/\/southtahoeremodel.com\/products\/drywall","provider":"South Tahoe Remodel","version":"1.0","type":"link"}