Drywall

Call us for Drywall installation.

Drywall Installation, Texturing & Painting

A smooth, professional drywall finish is the foundation of any great interior remodel. Whether you're finishing a new room, repairing damaged walls, or refreshing tired surfaces, understanding each phase — installation, texturing, and painting — ensures a result that looks polished and lasts for years.

Phase 1: Drywall Installation

• Sheet selection — Standard 1/2" drywall is used for most walls and ceilings; 5/8" Type X is required for fire-rated assemblies; moisture-resistant (green board) or cement board is used in bathrooms and wet areas.
• Framing prep — Studs or joists should be 16" or 24" on center. Check for plumb and level before hanging — any framing irregularity will telegraph through the finished wall.
• Hanging — Sheets are hung horizontally on walls to minimize butt joints. Use drywall screws every 12" in the field and 8" at edges; keep screws slightly dimpled — not broken through the paper face.
• Cutting — Score and snap for straight cuts; use a jab saw or oscillating tool for outlets, switches, and irregular openings.
• Corner bead & trim — Metal or vinyl corner bead is applied to all outside corners for a crisp, impact-resistant edge. J-bead or L-bead finishes raw edges at door openings and transitions.

Phase 2: Taping & Mudding

• First coat (taping coat) — Apply all-purpose or setting-type compound to joints; embed paper or mesh tape and feather out 4–6" on each side. Fill screw dimples flush.
• Second coat (blocking coat) — Apply a wider, thinner coat 8–10" wide after the first coat is fully dry. Lightly sand high spots before applying.
• Third coat (finish coat) — Feather joints out to 12" or more with a lightweight finishing compound for a nearly invisible seam. Sand smooth when dry using 120-grit paper or a sanding sponge.
• Drying time — Allow 24 hours between coats; longer in humid or cold conditions. Never rush with heat guns — slow drying reduces cracking.

Phase 3: Texturing

• Orange peel — A light, spattered texture applied by spray gun or aerosol can; creates a subtle dimpled surface that hides minor imperfections and is easy to touch up.
• Knockdown — Mud is spattered on the wall and then lightly "knocked down" with a drywall knife to flatten the peaks, creating an irregular, natural stone-like finish.
• Skip trowel — A hand-applied technique using a curved trowel to create a varied, artisan texture; thicker and more architectural than knockdown.
• Smooth finish — No texture; requires the most skill and prep but delivers a clean, modern look that showcases paint color and sheen beautifully.
• Popcorn (acoustic) — Spray-applied ceiling texture common in older homes; can be replicated for matching repairs or removed entirely during remodel.

Phase 4: Painting

• Prime first — always — Unprimed drywall absorbs paint unevenly, causing "flashing" (dull spots over joints). Use a PVA drywall primer or high-build primer sealer as the first coat.
• Sheen selection — Flat or matte for low-traffic walls and ceilings; eggshell or satin for living areas and bedrooms; semi-gloss for kitchens, bathrooms, and trim where washability matters.
• Application — Cut in edges with a brush, then roll the field with a 3/8" nap roller for smooth walls or 1/2" nap for textured surfaces. Apply in a "W" or "M" pattern for even coverage.
• Two finish coats — Two coats of finish paint over primer is the standard for full, even coverage. Lightly sand between coats with 220-grit for a silky final surface.
• Color temperature tip — In mountain and lake environments like South Lake Tahoe, warm whites and earthy neutrals complement natural light and wood tones beautifully throughout the year.